16th December - San Pedro Itzicán to Jamay, 44,92 km

Cycling:
After we climbed the hill from San Pedro and left the bad rocky road behind, there was a perfect downhill ride to Poncitlan. From Poncitlan we were on the road # 35 to Ocotlan. This road was almost like the freeway, with good shoulder but also with high traffic. From Ocotlan to Jamay is good bike path.

Learning:
- that Ocotlan is the town of furniture and Jamay is town of liquors
- that people in Ocotlan are friendly - that our national flag is really useful
- that even we can get full
- that cell phones are more powerful than religion
- that sleeping under the trees can have some disadvantages

Living:
~ in the morning we had 800 more metres on local horrible road from rocks to go, until we got on asphalt - what a relief...
~ downhill ride to Poncitlan was like a reward and dream after all that suffering, but when we got onto the road to Ocotlan, reality hit us again – busy traffic and a lot of trucks
~ We just passed Ocotlan, our only stop was in local supermarket (Bodega Aurrera) to buy some food for lunch and dinner, it is still quite expensive here, it is almost impossible to spend less than 100 pesos per day.
~ when we were finishing our lunch in front of supermarket, some guy came and gave us two bottles of water, saying “you are traveling far, you gonna need it” and then he left without another word :-)
~ another surprise waited for us on our way from Ocotlan, some driver showed me to stop - he wanted to tell us that he was owner of a restaurant and would like to invite us for lunch. We didn't take it very seriously and even didn't bother to remember name of his restaurant (and there were many of them anyway). But when we passed the right one, he came again and took us back, even though we were just after the lunch and full and we told him about it, but he insisted we should have a drink at least. So we followed him to his beautiful restaurant (quite noble one, but still family owned), it was on the lake shore with nice views and with many water birds in front of it. We ordered juice and he brought us also pineapple filled with shrimps (camarones) in coconut covered with coconut sauce for Barbora, and roasted beef (carne asados de rancheros) for Martin. It looked so good and tasted so delicious that we couldn't refuse. But to finish it, was hard, we were so full. We asked that guy why he had invited us and he told us that he had seen our flag (actually he had thought it was British, so we corrected his mistake), and he had never had guests from Slovakia. As the surprise at the end, he packed us two cakes for dessert and didn't want any money. So the least we can do to pay him back is to make a advertisement about his restaurant, so, please, if you ever go through Ocotlan, stop there, its name is Luminarias and you can find it on 7th km between Ocotlan and Jamay. We really recommend it :-). ~ to get to Jamay on paved bike path would be easy if we weren't so full
~ main road in Jamay was full of shops selling different liquors from fruit or sugar cane and people on the streets were selling a lot of food too, especially coconuts and roasted vegetable which looks and tastes a little bit like peas (but we don't know its name)
~ on the top of a small volcano above Jamay is nice church with huge statue of Christ, in the evening sun it could be nice picture, but cell phone antennas would spoil the picture anyway, as they are built right behind that church and are twice as high
~ huge flocks of some small birds were seen on the horizon, they looked like dark clouds, (we have something similar in Europe - Starlings, but we don't know the name of these birds here)
~ Piatok found a perfect camping spot in a corn field on the way to La Barca – dry, flat and under big fig trees; only disadvantage was, as we found later, that these trees were roosting place for birds who spent entire night eating the figs and shitting on our tent

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